Alyssa Boss, left, adds foil to highlight Kim Fischer’s hair at Marshall & Company. Area stylists have debunked common hair myths, including the damages of curling/straightening with heat, how often you’re supposed to wash your hair and if frequently coloring your hair causes damage. Photo by Julie Smith.
Straight, wavy or curly, there’s no end to the list of things you’ve wondered about taking care of your hair.
Local stylists Catherine Crum, of Catherine Crum the Salon, and Kim Marshall, of Marshall & Company, are here to help. They’ve offered their professional opinions on a range of common hair myths, from factors like sun exposure and bleaching that cause potential damage to products said to help make hair shinier, longer — you name it.
Q. Can stylists really tell when you use lower-quality shampoo and products?
A. Catherine Crum: Yes. When a guest uses lower quality shampoo, conditioner, hair product and color, the ingredients used in the products are lower quality, using waxes, chemicals and metals, and leave the hair’s integrity compromised, dull and damaged.
Kim Marshall: Stylists can often tell if lower-quality hair care products are being used by the feel and texture of the hair. If hair is dry, it can be because a cheap shampoo or conditioner is being used. Often the hair will feel like it has a buildup on it, too, as a result of waxy byproducts. For hairsprays that are not water-soluble, a definite dull, flaky appearance will exist on the hair. Always use water-soluble products on your hair and skin. Avoid petroleum-based products as well. If the company who manufactures your shampoo/conditioner and styling products also manufactures toothpaste, floor cleaner and other household products, I’d be wary. Stick with companies who know hair, who specialize in hair-care products only. The ingredients are going to be of higher quality, water-soluble and greater concentration.
Q. Does curling or straightening my hair at a lower temperature protect it from damage?
A. Crum: Yes, I always recommend using an iron with a temperature dial. Use the lowest setting and a great heat protectant, and slowly add more heat to the iron if needed. I have seen scorched hair due to hair that has been ironed at a high heat.
Marshall: Curling, straightening or blow-drying your hair at lower temps will help protect it from damage, but you may not get the greatest result either. The higher the heat, the better the result whether you are blow-drying, straightening or curling. The key is to not let the heat source sit long on the hair in one place. A heat protectant for hair is essential for maintaining your hair’s health and avoiding damage. Regular conditioning is vital as well if you use heat on your hair daily.
Q. Can you have your hair colored too frequently?
A. Crum: Yes. You need approximately 1/4-inch in order not to get an overlap of color. Also, going from light to dark and back dark frequently will result in damage and porosity.
Marshall: It is possible to color your hair too frequently if it is not done the right way. If a professional is coloring your hair, they should know the rules. We typically touch up only the new growth, and we adjust the strength of the color if we are coloring previously colored hair. You rarely want to lighten already previously lightened hair; that’s when the most damage can occur. Also, if you are going from dark to light, back and forth, month after month, damage is going to occur.
Q. Will bleaching my dark hair make it fall out or break off?
A. Crum: This depends on the current condition of the hair and the type of product you are using to bleach the hair. If you color at home, you are more likely to experience major damage that results in breakage.
Marshall: Bleaching any color hair the wrong way can cause it to break off. Dark hair especially may require multiple color steps to get it to the desired lightness. If your dark hair is already fragile, I’d be cautious. If your hair is strong and in good condition, with the right care and procedures, a professional can achieve beautiful light hair for you. Keep in mind, though, the maintenance involved in keeping dark hair light as it grows out. It can be very time-consuming and costly. We frequently recommend low-lights in shades of red or caramel on dark hair. It is less damaging and less maintenance.
Q. Does extended sun exposure damage hair? What about chlorine in swimming pools?
A. Marshall: You don’t have to be out in the sun for very long to see the effects. You need to treat your hair like a fine piece of silk fabric. You wouldn’t keep your expensive silk shirt sitting out in the sun, nor should you let your hair. Just look at your hardwood floors, drapes or outdoor furniture that is exposed to the sun daily; you can see the damage the sun is doing. Chlorine will also dry out your hair and skin. Chlorine, combined with the sun, will definitely fade your hair just as it does your swimming suit. It’s best to pre-wet your hair and then thoroughly apply a light leave-in conditioner before you take a dip. This process will fill the hair fibers with protective stuff so the chlorine can’t get in. It is also important to wash and condition your hair after swimming.
Crum: Yes, the sun acts as a natural lightener. Extended time in the sun can have the same effects on the hair as if you would have a lightener applied. Apply a UVA/UVB protection to the hair and wear a hat if you are going to be exposed to the sun. Chlorine will build up on the hair shaft causing it to feel and look dull and compromised.
Q. Does using coconut oil or other essential oils actually make hair thicker, shinier, etc.?
A. Marshall: Essential oils add nutrients and shine to your hair. Coconut oil is a great moisturizer for hair and skin. Coconut water is great for internal hydration as well. Healthy hair is shiny hair. Use oils sparingly. A little goes a long way.
Crum: To achieve thicker hair, you must nourish the hair follicle and scalp. I suggest using an essential oil to help massage the scalp and increase blood flow. The essential oil will NOT provide thicker hair, but the massaging of the scalp will help blood flow and aid in growth. Achieving thicker hair would come from a thickening system designed for thinning and hairloss. Essential oils can make the hair shiner. I would suggest asking your stylist for a product that will provide moisture and penetrate the hair instead of coating and weighing the hair down.
Q. Is it true that you shouldn’t wash your hair every day? How often should you wash it?
A. Marshall: How often you wash your hair is kind of a personal preference. I wash my hair every day. (Putting my head under that stream of water every morning is therapeutic.) I think if you want to wash every day, use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Some people have oily hair and need to wash every day. If you perspire a lot, washing your hair daily is OK. A clean, healthy scalp produces healthy hair. Stimulating the scalp when you wash helps send blood to the scalp and hair follicles, also contributing to healthy hair. If, on the other hand, you have dry, coarse hair, washing every third day may be all that it needs.
Crum: Hair naturally produces its own oils that act as a natural conditioner. Remember the old saying, “Brush your hair 100 strokes a day?” The reason for this saying is that this evenly distributes the oils through the hair. If it is possible, you should try skipping a day or two to keep the hair in better condition.
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